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Doctor Pitman Babbit Crankshaft was born sometime in the 20th Century. It is widely assumed that he was born in his parents' garage, but few records exist. The Crank

went to college at the University of Southern North Carolina at Lizard Lick, majoring in passing grades. By the time he earned his PHD in Auto-Ology, Dr. Crankshaft had built hundreds of engines, transmissions and all sorts of other automotive devices. He lives and works somewhere east of the Mississippi.

 

TELL THAT FORD TO STOP WHINING!

Q: I recently bought a ford F250 and noticed at 35 to 45 mph a high-pitched whine.     

It goes away at 45 mph and then is back at around 60 mph and higher. It is not a screaming sound, more like a high note hum. When I back off the gas it goes away. I think some noise in the automatic trans., or rear end bearing, or gear mesh problem. Thanks, TC


A: If the noise is in the rear end and goes away when you let off the gas the problem is most likely in the universal joint or the ring/pinion gear clearance adjustment. If the noise is continuous it's more likely to be an axle bearing. If the noise is coming from the center area of the truck, it could be the transmission's output bushing or seal, or possibly the front universal joint.

 

WARM AND NOISEY TOPAZ

Q: I have a 1993 Mercury Topaz with the 2.3 litre engine. When the engine warms up there is a noise. I have changed the alternator and the belt tensioner. I was told it could be the crank pulley. What could the noise be? It also revs up and down after it has warmed up. What could cause this? Thanks magnum250


A: The noise could be coming from the crank pulley, power steering pump, timing belt or a/c compressor pulley. You should get a stethoscope or solid rod long enough to safely listen to various points on the engine until you locate the noise. I can't stress how important it is to keep the test device from getting into the accessory belt or jammed behind a pulley.

As for revving up and down after warming up, this problem can frequently be caused by a faulty throttle position sensor, temperature sensor or EGR valve. These need to be tested for proper operation.


CHECK ENGINE

Q: I found your answer in the 9/27/06 Montgomery Newspaper. I took your advice and took the car to a Ford Dealer. He said there were no malfunction codes. He obtained the Technical Bulletin which addressed the deceleration problem. The repair as advised in the Bulletin would be over $1,000 and he could not guarantee the result. Despite no "Check Engine Light" now, the problem of deceleration has continued, but less often. Any other suggestions? Thanks, Ed - Merion, PA


A: This is one of those situations where things get complicated. If there's a TSB (technical service bulletin) that covers a specific issue and the shop can't guarantee that the solution will cure the problem, why bother spending the money? Your best bet is to write to Ford's consumer affairs folks and ask that a factory representative contact you to discuss the problem. Once you know all the issues you can make a more informed decision as to how to proceed.

 

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